Amazing!  Four days in Los Glaciares is not enough.   So many things on my mind…

First, the spaces.  The bus from Calafate to Chalten took us north past Lagos Argentina and Viedma, through a scrub-brush landscape lined with wire fences.  There are guancos, ostrich, condors, and cattle, dogs everywhere.  Occasionally an estancia, a thin habiation on this frontier. 

Chalten is as beautful as Calafate, as broken.  More dogs.  The color pallet is brown, blue, green and white, each shade is crisp and original. 

In the mountains we climb past the mata guanaco into the alpine belt, where trees called la lenga grow in shambly dissaray.  They are beautiful, it feels like an enchanted forest, wih puma.  And then the views, of Fitzroy, Torre.  It’s so pristine and clear. 

Patagonia is the only place I’ve ever been where you don’t have to filter your water.  It comes straight off the glacier, collects in these lakes and creeks.  It tastes just as you imagine it would– cold and clean.  The air is the same.  Yesteday on Torre Glacier the wind caught up with us again.  It’s channeled from the Pacific over the Andes, though these narrow moutain passes.  It smells and tastes better than any other air I’ve breathed.  Que pura!

Torre Glacier moves and breathes like an animal.  I can hear water rushing below through the crevasses, the outside margins supposedly creep two meteres each day.


~ by maiapatagonia on October 29, 2009.

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