Cape Horn was the turning point of the trip– in space and time. What a bittersweet moment, to have reached my austral goal and to realize that it’s time to go back north, and that my trip is halfway over. But even north here is still pretty south. And my traveling companion for the rest of the trip has arrived.


I love Tierra del Fuego, another week in Ushuaia surrounded by the blue Beagle Channel, snowy Andes and these crumbly lenga forests. We hike Martial Glacier, and decide that finding the glacier is just an excuse for the view of water, Navarino and two-toned blue sky. We visit the Maritime, Prison and Art Museums. Walking through that old presidio gives me the chills, and we take the convict train to the National Park. We eat centolla, bife, cordero, and queso patagonico, and of course sample the malbecs and the artisan brews. There are protests outside a Municipal building, men are beating drums and a warming fire is lit in the middle of the street. In my clunky Spanish I manage to ask someone what’s happening, and tells me they are demonstrations of the unemployed— and I understand!


The day we leave Ushuaia is a sad one. It began to feel like home to me. But we touch down in Calafate and the sun is out, and that’s good too.




~ by maiapatagonia on November 21, 2009.

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